Uncle Henri’s fish quenelle in crayfish stock
Everything about Brasserie Gavroche oozes Parisian sophistication, from the decor and the staff, including the ever-so-chic front-of-house and part-owner – Charlotte, to the outstanding food cooked by her husband, chef Frédéric Colin. Chef Frédéric – the former Executive Chef at the St Regis in Singapore has some impressive experience prior to that, mostly in France and across the world. And he brings all that together in this bustling brasserie in Tras Street in Singapore.
Brasserie Gavroche has been open just a few months and I am happily eating my way through their menu. So far every dish that has been ordered has been amazing. I’m combining my visits (so far) here in this one post, so please bear with the length, but I want to remember and savour each dish again. It doesn’t matter if you go for lunch or dinner, there is only one menu and everything competes with your brain and tastebuds crying out “choose me ! choose me !”. Making a decision is tough.
Bone marrow with garlic confit on Poilâne toast
Let’s begin with starters: bone marrow on Poilâne bread with garlic confit. Not for the faint-hearted – you get four generous globules of bone marrow with garlic on thin slices of the toasted bread, spread with a bright green parsley spread. The bone marrow simply melts in your mouth, balanced with the freshness of the parsley. All the flavours and textures combine wonderfully in your mouth.
If you fancied something fresh you could try the oysters from Brittany – shucked on premises and tasting of the sea. For something warm and comforting order the French onion soup.
In-house rotisserie French spring chicken with salsify fries
Main courses are equally as exciting. I rarely order chicken in restaurants – my only memory of that was when Chef Andre Chiang was still at Jaan and I ordered the Bresse chicken. The food at Gavroche is so good that I tried the house rotisserie of French spring chicken. French chicken seems to just have a different texture to what I’m used to – it’s slightly “springier” for want of a better word, and Gavroche uses a herb butter under the breast skin, flavouring the breast meat and keeping it moist. And although I don’t eat lamb, my Welsh friend could not stop saying it was the best lamb he’d had – ever. A chat with Chef Frédéric later and we found that the lamb was from Wales. The reason why it tasted better than the more easily accessible New Zealand lamb, was that Welsh lamb is no more than 12 months old, as compared to New Zealand lamb which can be up to 18 months old, keeping the flavour and texture more delicate.
Traditional French onion soup
My absolute favourite of Gavroche was Grandpa Henri’s fish quenelle with crayfish sauce. Almost souffle-like in texture, the light quenelles of fish float in a rich crayfish stock. Another excellent example of balance of flavours in this dish which makes you just want more.
The success of Gavroche, for me, is that only the best is selected – of their produce, their wine. There is no compromise – and the result is you get that true Parisien experience. Make a reservation if you want to go because this place seems to get busier and busier each time I go.
66 Tras St
Tel: 6225 8266