Hand-carved Jamon Iberico Bellota and our tapas bill in chalk on the counter
So last year’s European trip for D and I was Spain. We have heard so much about this country – and when we started doing some research into where we wanted to go, the first thing I realised was how much I underestimated the size of this country. With just two weeks we decided to eat our way through just three cities, Seville, Grenada and Barcelona.
Coquinas – small clams cooked on the grill with garlic and flat-leaf parsley
My previous experience of Spanish food has of course been tapas, of which there seem to be many, and if you think about the basics of tapas, shouldn’t really be that difficult – good produce, simply cooked. But similar to my experiences of tapas outside of Spain, even in Spain, there’s a clear divide. If it’s good, then it’s GREAT. If it’s not, well then it’s pretty disappointing – there wasn’t really any inbetween.
We started in Seville. The city where there are over 4,000 tapas bars. Home of sherry and from where apparently tapas originated. Our first night we went on a recommendation of a friend to visit El Rinconcillo – the oldest tapas bar in the region. The tavern is packed to the gills with tourists and locals. Family-run, the men that run the bar (and I assume those in the kitchen – all we saw were hands) are ultra efficient – turnover is the key to this place. Not a lot of smiling goes on here – this is serious business. The interior is dimly lit, lots of dark wood and barrels for people to gather around, and the ubiquitous legs of Iberico ham hanging from the ceiling. We were lucky to score some space at the counter, and there, as each of your order is served, they write the cost down on the counter in chalk.
Slow-cooked pork cheek
Guidebooks tell you that you should go from tapas bar to tapas bar, sampling different things at each, as each will specialise in one or two things. We had so much fun at El Rinconcillo that we racked up a ridiculously long tab, what with all the food we kept ordering while the ice-cold cerveza (beer) and fino (sherry) kept flowing.
Bacalao – battered salt cod
Our favourites ? Coquinas – small clams, simply cooked a la plancha (on the grill) with lashings of garlic and flat-leaf parsley, slow-cooked pork cheek, bacalao – salt cod with a crispy light batter and of course, hand-carved jamon Iberico bellota. This is the best ham in the world, made from free-range pigs which feed on black acorns, cured for five years, giving it a deep, rich, intense flavour that seems to get better the more you chew it.
Definitely a recommendation if you want to get a true experience of Spanish tapas – the atmosphere, service and of course, the food here is excellent.
El Rinconcillo
40, Gerona St. and 2, Alhóndiga St. 41003 SEVILLE.
Tel: +34 954 223 183.
Email: info@elrinconcillo.es
Open: 1 p.m. to 1.30 a.m daily
March 8th, 2013 at 11:34 pm
Hi Carolyn, You must have had a great time. My husband and I keep thinking of going to Spain one fall just to experience the food like you did. But each time we start to plan a trip, France, Germany and Italy keep popping up.
March 9th, 2013 at 3:10 am
Oh man, those photos are making me hungry. Jamón is seriously my crack. I live in Sevilla and I’ve never actually been to El Rinconcillo…but I think I should go! If you ever come back, definitely head to Las Columnas and Tabernas Coloniale, they also have great tapas 🙂
March 9th, 2013 at 6:35 am
All of that dinner looks great !!!
I could take a couple of plates of those clams.
March 9th, 2013 at 10:39 am
Spain is so beautiful my friend, the place and food 😀
Cheers
CCU
March 9th, 2013 at 2:52 pm
Spain is on my bucket list and the food you have here is one main reason,
March 10th, 2013 at 1:52 am
My son went on a school trip to Spain.. I went as a 20-something and spent one night in Barcelona in a tent, lol. So I’d love to go back. There’s nothing like tapas and yours looks like a fantastic edible journey! xx
March 10th, 2013 at 3:08 pm
Ohhh that clams looks so yummy! Nice post
March 11th, 2013 at 1:34 pm
What a gastronomical trip you had!! I want to visit Spain someday 😀
March 12th, 2013 at 10:31 pm
I LOVE cod and that cod looks absolutely amazing. I wish I could go to Spain right about now 🙂
March 15th, 2013 at 12:27 am
jamon jamon jamon, you made me miss it so !
March 17th, 2013 at 2:03 pm
Now I’m starving! Great photos!